At the beginning of the nineteenth century, either due to the proximity, or due to some marriage between noble families, or due to the characteristics of the lands and vineyards, a small revolution took place in the Langhe. In Europe the most popular cuisine is French, and consequently wine is the most popular. Thus, in the cellars of Barolo and nearby towns, they slowly try to change direction: the Nebbiolo bunches are subjected to complete fermentation and a long period of refinement, and they begin to indicate the wines with the names of the localities.
Two centuries have passed and in the meantime the Langhe have become the most iconic place of Italian viticulture (since 2014 the landscape of the Langhe has been a UNESCO heritage site), with small villages dotting hills entirely planted with vines, castles and cellars scattered across the territory, a culture of wine and good food that has few equals in the world. Valbormida is an ideal starting point for exploring the Langhe: from Millesimo you enter Alta Langa and - following the Belbo stream - you soon arrive in the heart of this region.
The main center of the south-western Langhe is Dogliani. The town is divided between the Borgo, located at the bottom of the Rea stream, and the Castle which stands in a higher position and which preserves its ancient medieval appearance. The architect Giovanni Battista Schellino had an impact on the physiognomy of Dogliani in the second half of the 19th century: his many neoclassical and neo-Gothic style interventions still emerge in the town centre. A traditional agricultural centre, home to many illustrious figures (Luigi Einaudi, Michele Ferrero, Giorgio Bocca), Dogliani was also one of the cornerstones of the Resistance, the backdrop with its hills to many of the stories of Cesare Pavese and Beppe Fenoglio. Linked to Cairo Montenotte is Monforte d’Alba, with the houses all leaning against the slopes of the hill and the residence of the Scarampi Counts which took the place of the castle. Not to be missed is a visit to the Horszowski Auditorium (inaugurated in 1986 by the Polish pianist): it is a natural amphitheater created from the natural slope of the land, with steps covered in grass and the surrounding wall and the portal of the Scarampi gardens as a scenic space.
The streets cut through hundreds and hundreds of aligned rows, the cellars (the more traditional ones and those designed by the starchitects) are open for visits and tastings. In the heart of the Langhe we find the villages that gave their names to two of the most appreciated and well-known Italian wines in the world: Barolo and Barbaresco. The village of Barolo is concentrated around the Falletti castle, whose origins date back to the year one thousand. A splendid building which today houses the Wine Museum or WiMu (Wine Museum), a stop not to be missed for anyone visiting the Langhe: it is an interactive, fun, exciting museum which tells the story and history in an in-depth but never boring way. culture of wine and oenology. And after the theory, here comes the practical part with the Regional Enoteca, where you can taste (being careful not to overdo it) a large number of wines, vines and labels. After a walk in the historic centre, among restaurants, shops and ancient houses, you can arrive at the Cappella del Barolo, or to be precise Cappella delle Brunate, a small, brightly colored church that stands out in the green and undulating panorama of the countryside (and which is also an excellent starting point for a walk to La Morra). The symbol of Barbaresco is the Tower, about thirty meters high and sentinel over the Tanaro valley, built starting from the 11th century. Today, together with the nearby Regional Enoteca in the deconsecrated church of San Donato, it is a very lively cultural centre.
The real capital of the Langhe is Alba, the largest center and the economic engine of the area. Settlement of the Ligurians, Roman municipium and then free Municipality, Alba today presents itself as a liveable and elegant town, with a well-kept and refined historic center and restaurants and shops where you can find the many excellences that the area offers. Among the many things to see are the cathedral of San Lorenzo, Gothic and colourful; the town hall, with its long history and many works of art; the towers that still dot the historic center. Alba is (rightly) known throughout the world for its truffle: an exceptional product, but our advice is to also try the Valbormida truffle, which has little to envy its "cousin" (the Langhe, after all, are just two steps away) but which can be found at slightly more accessible prices.
